Thursday 23 January 2014

Thoughts on St Helena

In December 2013 I visited St Helena for the first time to film a documentary about the island and its people. The chaps at the 'St Helena Wirebird' blog asked me some questions about my visit... here are my answers.


We know that you visited St Helena to film a documentary. What aspects of the island were you looking at and how did the island compare to your other experiences?
As a team we were keen to portray the island in their best light, to see what they had to offer the modern traveler and to meet and talk with locals to gain insight into island life.
I’ve been lucky enough to visit some pretty remote places, so I suppose these experiences have shaped my expectations, which is not a bad thing as I didn’t have a lot of time to prepare for the trip; in fact I only had two weeks. I’d like to think I visited the island with a completely open mind, and I’m really glad I did. I’d be kidding myself if I thought I’d got under the skin of the island’s culture, but the welcome and hospitality were humbling.
The journeys and adventures we enjoyed on St Helena were all the more exciting and engaging because we had to establish new friendships with the people who helped us with them. If I’d had the opportunity, and we weren’t trying to get so much done, I think I would have spent more time pottering around Jamestown. I loved hearing the Mynah birds singing in the early evening before they went to roost in the trees. I also wanted to spend more time walking. Simon, the cameraman, did a lot of filming of the landscape, having seen some of the footage I envied some of the places he was able to go and see.
Part of the St Helena experience is obviously the historic voyage on the RMS St Helena. As a seasoned sea woman, having rowed across the Atlantic not just once, but twice, how did you find the journey on board?
The RMS was an epic adventure in its own right – and I’m not just talking about the food! It took a while to get used to the pace on board, and everyone jokes about the ding-dong calls to dinner… and cake …. and beef tea! What I loved about the ship was its unpretentiousness. You get to know the passengers and crew, and they get to know you. Aside from gaining half a stone I really couldn’t fault it as one of the very best ways to travel.
You’re a person who has an impressive travel history of visiting remote places! How did St Helena compare?
I have to say, with hand on heart, it’s one of my favourite places in the world. I love the islanders’ spirit, the sense of community and the extraordinary landscape. I may be a bit odd but I also appreciate the simple way of life.  There aren’t hundreds of shops selling everything and anything. You have to make do, and make the most of what you have. I can see why many want to tell the world about the island, but at the same time some want to keep it secret for fear of spoiling it. I just feel incredibly privileged to have been able to visit, and stay for such a long.

You relish a challenge. How did you fare conquering Jacob’s Ladder?
Who’d have thought a flight of stairs could be so difficult! Simon, the director, and I went down them and didn’t go back up again – how misguided! I went down twice in the same day! Both of us struggled to walk for ages! Going up with some of the Girl Guides was really good fun, even though I should have picked a better time – 11am was a little bit too hot. The girls were up in a jiffy but I have to admit I took my time… I was still recovering (at least that’s my excuse!). The view was amazing and it was great to see Jamestown in full swing for Christmas.
The biggest news for St Helena at the moment is obviously the opening of the airport in 2016. Did you see the latest developments of it and what do you think this will mean for the island and particularly the Saint community?
I was lucky enough to visit the airport site on more than one occasion. The complexity of the development is quite mindboggling! As to what it will mean to the Saints, well I can see the benefits – medical support, work opportunities, both in St Helena and abroad, and also the potential for increased tourism. But I can also appreciate the drawbacks that are perhaps difficult for outsiders to understand. I spoke to the Head Girl at Prince Andrew School and she explained her reticence. She told me that the voyage on the RMS prepares you for the gentleness of the island, it gives you time to think about the journey and appreciate the remoteness the islanders’ experience. When tourists arrive on the plane they will just step off without that appreciation. I can see her point. The trouble is the airport is coming, and I’m not sure everyone is prepared for it.
And the all-important question… any plans to visit St Helena in the future? Perhaps the Governor’s Cup or the St Helena Marathon to test your talents?
I’d love to come back. I’d also love to bring my husband one day too. If we have the time and the opportunity we’ll do it, but I’d like him to travel there by the RMS. We can jump on a plane any day of the week!

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